
So what happens
to your weapon once PBI gets there hands on it? First, let us say that we treat
every weapon we get in like our first born child. We respect the fact that the
weapon in front of us belongs to you, the customer, and it is something you
depend on to hunt, fight, survive, and enjoy for the rest of your life.
Secondly, we respect the job no matter how small or simple. You will get the
same attention to detail and quality for one magazine as you will get for an
entire arsenal worth of business. That being said, lets run down our basic
formula we use for refinishing and why each step is important:
Complete and total disassembly
We tear down every weapon we get in, as far down as it can be taken. You can
take your own weapons apart and send them in if you like, but ask yourself this
before you do..."Can I put it back together without blemishing the finish I just
paid for?" Our advice is to let us deal with that headache for you. This is
where hobbyist refinishers and sub-par companies go wrong. One of the biggest
mistakes we have seen people make is supplementing a lack of knowledge and tools
with masking tape. The idea being that if they can't break it all the way down,
they will just mask off...this does not work. It will never be properly
degreased, prep'ed, or finished without doing this.
Complete degreasing
Once this process is completed, bare human hands will not touch your parts until they
are ready for reassembly. Proper degreasing is a lot more than dunking
everything in some brake cleaner and shaking it off. It can take quite a bit of
time on certain parts and weapons in general to do this correctly. There is no
such thing as "good enough" in our vocabulary. We do it right or we would not do
it at all. Even the smallest amount of lubricant (especially cosmoline), hiding in the
cracks, or skin oils left on the surface can create a time bomb for your finish
to crap out on you and leave you with an eye-sore at some point. We all can
respect a little wear on a man's gun...it says, "I get carried and shot". But
an improperly degreased weapon with a finish applied overtop will leave your gun saying something more like, "I got
chicken pocks and am damn ugly!"
Complete surface prep of every part
And not just the one's that can be seen. We will use the appropriate bead or
oxide material and size/grit for any particular substrate to insure a smooth and
uniform surface for coating. All original finish can be removed and the prep
process can still be done wrong. An inexperienced man in a blasting booth can
wipe out manufacturer stampings and create uneven blemishing that WILL show even
after coating.
Complete coverage
Everything that CAN be coated, WILL be coated inside and out to guarantee the
longevity of your weapon's life. The time from prep to coat is mere moments to
prevent oxidation from setting in. High wear areas will be built up, and tight
tolerant pieces will be kept thin for function. Incorrect application can make
blemishes, runs, cracks, peeling, pooling, drooling, fish-eye, and even weapon
malfunction to name a few. The finish you end up with on ALL parts will surpass
factory finishes in looks and performance.
Complete reassembly and testing
During this phase, we will properly lubricate areas of your weapon that most
people never do or send off to have a gunsmith execute during a complete service
cleaning which on its own could run you $50 or more. Our reassembly time spent
will sometimes even surpass the actual finishing time to ensure that every part
is carefully put in place so as not to leave any marring or damage to the
finish. Every weapon is tested for function before considering the job is done.
If it worked when we got it, rest assured, it will work when you get it back.
Screwing reassembly up is just plain dangerous!

If you have the proper facility, equipment, and expertise...You sure can! Many
of the products we use are available to anyone that wants them. Lauer Weaponry,
for example, sells DuraCoat all over the world. The problem is that many people
try it themselves and due to the poor results they get, decide that a particular
product is the culprit. We really don't encounter a loss of business from this,
but a loss in customer confidence in any given product. We have had customers
bring us weapons they have done themselves or by other companies that demanded something different
than the product they had used. They always proclaim that "Product-A" is trash
do to the results they got. The funny thing is, we can usually plop down
something in front of them that we coated in the same thing and change their
mind. You can not substitute proper equipment, prep, and application techniques
to save cash and hope to end up with something worth having.
It is only natural to find a way to get what you want for less $$$ and have it in your hands yesterday. But please don't forget the old saying, "You Get What You Pay For." We are not in the business of doing things cheap and quick. If that is what you want...PBI does NOT want your business, simply because both those words add up to Half-Ass. And we will never let anything leave our shop with those words and our name in the same box.

All prices are based on standard time and materials.
No coating is indestructible. Any metal to metal contact points or high friction areas WILL cause some blemishing and this will not be accepted as a failure to refinish the firearm and its accessories properly. All work will be done to the item(s) and/or accessories in its existing condition. We will not be held responsible for any metal pitting, cracks in stock sets, or any other pre-existing surface flaws or how the new finish wears in these locations. As with any older, abused, or well used guns, some repairs go far beyond replacing some parts to make them safe for use and will require the attention of a master gunsmith or manufacturer to make repairs. It is the customer’s responsibility as the owner to maintain his/her property accordingly.
Any customer-disassembled item(s) MUST be accompanied with an inventory checklist of parts or it may be refused and returned at customer cost. Para Bellum Inc will not be held liable for any missing or damaged parts until a full inventory and its condition has been verified. If the item(s) to be refinished has in fact been disassembled prior to its submission for refinishing, all parts received will be refinished and returned as they were received. Please do not send irrelevant parts (such as detents, springs, etc.) with your parts refinishing order.
There will be
instances where complete disassembly of all parts is not an option due to the
way a particular item is put together by its manufacturer. Such items possibly
cannot be coated unless the customer agrees to pay for replacement pins and/or
parts.
Examples
Staked sights would be destroyed removing them,
though they can be coated along with the slide as is. Staked tritium sights
could fail under curing temperatures for certain coatings and they must come off
which means destroying them.
Remington 870 trigger packs have a flared pin that
must be destroyed to disassemble completely, if customer does not want to pay
for the replacement pin, the trigger pack will be left as is.
Camouflage patterns will be somewhat unique from gun to gun, as there are many surface differences and variations in how the patterns lay out on any particular firearm to get complete coverage. We guarantee each job will be done true to form in its perspective pattern and scheme, but make no promise of being able to exactly duplicate or clone pattern placement from one gun to another. To do so, would constitute customizing and can be requested for an additional fee, if we deem it possible to do.
Edged weapons such as knives, axes, and swords that are refinished are coated down to the cutting edge. It is the customer's responsibility to sharpen or have sharpened any dulled cutting surfaces. If you so wish, we can re-sharpen your blade (Email for Quote).
Areas of extreme tight tolerances will not be camouflaged, as applying multiple layers of color could impede function. We always try to incorporate such areas into any particular pattern so that a single color layer finish in these areas blends properly. In rare cases, however, it may not be possible to do so. Furthermore, this applies to any multi-layer refinishing job other than camouflage whereas any more than a single layer finish in a particular area would impede function.
Hand fitted handguns, such as Caspian 1911's, will have ultra tight tolerances. In these instances, the coating itself must be fitted. For example, slide to frame fit can be so tight, that frame rails will have their coating removed and these areas of the steel polished for function. PBI will never trade function for coverage. Externally, you will never know the difference in appearance. Ultimately any and all jobs fall under PBI's discretion to make necessary adjustments to the job. It is a rarity for changes to be made, but from time to time, what has been asked for simply shows itself to be the wrong application for what is needed. PBI will make these adjustments only as needed. An example of this would be the customer choosing a finish that is simply to thick for a particular internal part due to tolerances, and PBI switching the product for that particular part in the name of function and fit.
Parkerizing tint is dependant on the hardness of steel. As many weapons will have multiple grades of steel and hardness levels, some difference in tint from part to part is unavoidable.
Para Bellum Inc guarantees to execute any and all custom finishes per customer specification with prior approval of the design and our ability to render it. We, however, will not be held responsible for the finished item’s aesthetics or appearance. As with any custom project, we will make suggestions to color choice and pattern/graphic placement but ultimately, how the design and colors actually look together are at the discretion of the customer. Customers who opt to pick their own colors for any of our existing camo finishes fall under this as well.
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If customers wish to send, or purchase from PBI, new sights (upgrading to night sights, etc.) and have them installed in place of existing sights, PBI, in most cases, will do this free of charge with a refinishing order as sights must be removed and re-installed after coating. Be sure the new sights are for the weapon you are sending and no special milling or fitting is required (i.e. cutting in new Novak dove tail joints into a slide). Installing new staked front sights does carry a small labor charge. Front and rear dovetailed sights will be installed at center point, and any adjustments thereafter are the customer's responsibility.

PBI does not offer any written warranty on any of the coatings we use as we do not manufacture them. We, however, will stand behind any work we do for you. Should any finish fail (crack, bubble, or peel) under normal factory recommended operational parameters from time of completion, PBI will repair/redo at no cost to you. Not included under our labor warranty are scratches or blemishes incurred from use or abuse on your part.
If for any reason a refinishing order warrants repair/redo, PBI will complete this at our cost. However, we reserve the right to inspect the item(s) for any mistreatment or improper storage and transportation upon receiving such an item. You must call or email for authorization prior to sending any item back under these circumstances.

We will not accept firearms with
missing serial numbers unless the customer can provide proof that there is a
legitimate reason for such (police report from recovered stolen property, etc.).
Any Class 3 items sent for service must include a copy of your tax stamp or
dealer paper work.

PBI does not in any way accept liability for any items damaged in shipping as a result of carrier mishap or rough treatment. PBI will always make sure to package your items for the trip home correctly and securely. It is the customer's responsibility, however, to pay for enough shipping insurance to cover anything that may happen in transit and in the care of the shipper; to include but not limited to: lost shipment, damaged in transit, accidental destruction, etc. You should plan to insure it for the total invested amount, including your new finish. For customers who wish to pre-pay by check or money order, we suggest that you over estimate return shipping costs by 20%. PBI will refund any left over monies paid in for return shipping. Safe is always better than sorry!
It is the customer's responsibility to list the valued amount for package insurance. If no value is listed, PBI will estimate its value, but will in no way accept monetary liability for any damages or loss not covered by the estimated shipping insurance. A family heirloom may be priceless to you, but the Blue Book on it may tell us it is worth $100. So please, let us stress how important it is for YOU, the customer, to let us know what you require for shipping insurance.
We ship all packages "Signature Required". If for some reason, you need other arrangements made please contact us in advance of placing your order. Your assumption that we can ship your rifle to your Mom's house due to you being on vacation the week we will have it ready, will only mean that your rifle will sit on our shelf until you get back. We can only lawfully return a firearm to the owner or dealer from which it was shipped from.
Package your items in appropriate containers, as they will be reused to send your items home. We charge only what the carrier charges us. If, however, for any reason we receive items for service in an inappropriate container, PBI will not send completed jobs home this way. Furthermore, should PBI incur any extra material cost out of the scope of normal operation, the customer will be charged for them (example: purchase new rifle sized box for return shipping as customer originally sent rifle to us wrapped in a trash bag and wound in packing tape...you laugh, but it happens!)

Limited to steel and only
steel, but a coating that has stood the test of time and damn near every
military on Earth! Hard run full-auto or safe queen...both will look the same if
maintained properly. Think of park as a surface sponge for protective
lubricants. Keeping that in mind, what about using it as a base coat under a
ceramic, teflon, or urethane coatings?
What are the
benefits?
1)
Parkerizing can go where few finishes can as it is one of the thinnest coatings
available, nor is it limited by where a spray gun can reach, or operating
temperatures.
2) The finished product with a parkerized base coat will gain added impact resistance and makes it harder to scrape down to bare metal from a bad spill.
3) For DuraCoat finishes, we see added adhesion benefits when joined with a Zinc Parkerizing base coat.
What is the
down side?
1) Surface thickness will
increase which can create wear points in places that did not have the issue
previously. An example would be holster contact points. Tight fitting retention
holsters will be even tighter fitting. Furthermore, hand fit weapons like custom
1911's that have little or no slop between parts may require some refitting.
2) Park base coats kill sheen. If you are looking for the flattest sheen level you can get, this is good; however, if your after more than a satin sheen, stay away from this option.
3) Surface texture is not as smooth as without this option. Like the difference between a sheet of paper and a sheet of glass to the touch.
To put it simple, if you are going to beat the hell out of your rifle from use, a park base coat is a good idea. If you have a custom Wilson Combat 1911, this is NOT for you! You can use Manganese or Zinc for a base coat. Either will add benefit to your overall finish. Zinc, however, is the smoothest of the two and contains the highest crystallization which provides the best bonding surface with any over coat of choice.
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OK, we know all the product lab data can look a bit like some astrophysics formula for a Martian death ray. So lets lay it out in plain English. Which Finish for
what Material?
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Sheen
So you want a matte
finish. That's fine, at least half our customers do. But something you may not
know is; the glossier the sheen, the better your finish will wear. This is a
simple fact of chemistry. Matte under a microscope will appear to have a
rougher, "bumpier" surface. This is how it gets its appearance to the naked eye.
Light can't reflect off of a gradient surface nearly as well as a polished one.
The glossier the finish, the slicker the surface. Slick surfaces have the least
amount of potential to create friction against another surface such as a
holster. This friction is what causes wear spots long term. Reduce the
friction...reduce the wear.
Just food for thought.
M.I.M. Parts
Metal Injection
Molding. Plenty of manufacturers use this for the fabrication of parts in their
weapons. How this applies to your finish is this: MIM parts rarely are nice and
smooth. They have inconsistencies and surface variations that can show with a
finer, thinner finish. Even if the finish is perfect...which it will be if we do
it...these imperfections in the metal can possibly show through as swirl
patterns or criss-cross grain in appearance in bright light by canting back and
forth. Most people could care less, or possibly don't even know it is there, but
we are picky and thought we would point it out. If you are as picky as we are
and are not wanting to get into body work, your best bet is to go with a
DuraCoat finish over any other. The reason being, the thicker stabilizing
quality of this product will give you a much smoother and cleaner look on
imperfect surfaces. Not all parts are created equal, obviously. Some MIM parts
come out nice, others...not so nice. A lot of times, manufactures will put a
sufficient thickness of their coating to hide these surface variations. Should
PBI receive and see bad MIM surface variation half-way through, we may even stop
and contact you to let you ponder the options.
Wood Putty
If your plan is to have your wood
furniture refurbished in the stain of your choice, please let us handle any body
work that may be needed. We have gotten several jobs in the past where the
attempt was made to smooth or fill in dings and dents with wood putty prier to
sending it to us. Wood putty will always look like wood putty no matter how much
stain and clear coat we put on it. There are better ways, and chances are, if
the dings are small, you will pay us as much as the wood putty cost to smooth
them out for you.
Good Old Fashion Bluing
Yes, there is
something about a quality hot bluing job that pretty much everyone can
appreciate. And if a true hot blued finish is what you want, we will be happy to
recommend some quality names in the industry. Why don't we offer bluing then?
The answer is in the title to this passage..."OLD Fashion"...Bluing, hot or
cold, simply can not hold a candle to any product we offer when it comes to
durability and protection for your metal surfaces. It is labor intensive and
expensive to have done correctly without the pay off of the durability and
corrosion resistance of modern coatings. That being said, we haven't left out
the customers that still desire the look and feel of bluing without having to
compromise. We can accommodate most shades and sheens of bluing. You tell us
what look you are after and we will make it happen. And as a shameless plug for our
capabilities to match the different looks of bluing, we have even had to go to
the extent of arguing with people at gun shows that see it in person and simply
refuse to believe what they are looking at is not real bluing.

Why do we spec most of our camo jobs using DuraCoat? Simple...no other product offers the color pallet and versatility in one package needed to pull off some of the patterns. Also, it is the only product that we can guarantee an even sheen on all coated surfaces with multiple colors. If for any reason you wish to have a camo job done using any of our other coatings, you will need to understand that you are limiting yourself to certain colors, possible uneven sheen from color to color, and extra cost. High curing temperatures makes doing any Hunter pattern nearly impossible, and Mil-Style patterns very difficult with anything other than DuraCoat. That being said, most Soft-Edge and Fusion camo patterns can be done with any teflon or ceramic coating with care on our part and of course some extra bucks from you.
Mil-Style Camo
All of our patterns
are based on actual camouflage that is either in use or has been used by the
world's armed forces or was up for trials and lost out for adoption. We try to offer as much variety as we possibly can, but to
show it all would take up it's own web site! Just because you don't see it on
our site, doesn't mean we can't do it or do not offer it. We like to encourage
our customers to research on their own. You probably never realized just how
many different patterns and variants exist!
We try to show pattern correctness at all times in our samples, but vary the
colors simply to further expand our customer's pallet on what colors look good
together. If you live in Arizona, colors from a European country's camo would
not really be the best thing for concealment in your area. The pattern itself,
however, can work quite well with some adjustments in color choice. Look at the
pattern first, decide if the shapes suite you. Then decide your colors and any
pattern adjustments to spacing of those colors.
Hunter Camo
All of our patterns from this family
of camo are done exclusively in DuraCoat. They are not a hydrographic coating
(Dip). They are an actual protective finish for your weapon. Colors can be
altered as well as pattern placement to suit your needs, which is not an option
with other camo systems. We pride ourselves in first and foremost in offering a
tough and resilient finish for your firearm, the bonus being we can also make it
disappear in the field!